![Uganda Expedition](https://exo-terra.com/wp-content/uploads/Uganda-HEADER-2880-X-1250-1-scaled.jpg)
Rwenzori Mountains
Emmanuel Van Heygen
In the heart of Africa, where Uganda and the Congo lay side by side, rise the Ruwenzori Mountains, affectionately called the “Mountains of the Moon” by ancient explorers. With their jagged peaks hidden beneath thick blankets of mist, they resemble the ethereal realm of forgotten legends. It’s a place where snowfields contrast the equatorial sun, and cascading rivers weave through tropical rainforests. But for the keen-eyed naturalist, the Ruwenzoris hide an even more mesmerizing secret: chameleons, nature’s unparalleled illusionists.
![Rwenzori Mountains](https://exo-terra.com/wp-content/uploads/rwenzori-22.jpg)
![Rwenzori Mountains](https://exo-terra.com/wp-content/uploads/rwenzori-22.jpg)
Majestic and timeless, the peaks of the Rwenzori Mountains pierce the skies, bearing silent witness to eons of change while cradling ancient secrets in their lofty embrace
The Journey Begins
To venture into the Ruwenzoris is to embark on an odyssey of self-discovery and wonder. From the moment one sets foot on the damp, moss-covered forest floor, there’s an overwhelming feeling of stepping back in time.
As we ascend the first slopes, the pristine rainforest envelopes us. Ancient and enormous ferns line the path, while overhead, the interlocking canopy casts blotchy shadows. The cool mountain air is thick with the aroma of wet earth, an intoxicating blend that reminds us of nature’s undying essence.
![Rwenzori Mountains](https://exo-terra.com/wp-content/uploads/rwenzori-23.jpg)
![Rwenzori Mountains](https://exo-terra.com/wp-content/uploads/rwenzori-23.jpg)
The journey begins deceptively gentle. Yet, as the path winds its way upwards, the terrain transforms, demanding every ounce of strength as the gradient turns from mild to a relentless climb
Eyes Wide Open: The Search Intensifies
Although our mission is singular—to seek out and understand the elusive chameleons of these mountains—the Ruwenzoris themselves are distractingly magnificent, every few steps reveal wonders. But chameleons are masters of deception and they’re not only difficult to spot but also represent the profound mysteries of the mountain. As we comb through ferns and peek through the thickets, the thrill of the chase intensifies.
![Rwenzori Mountains](https://exo-terra.com/wp-content/uploads/rwenzori-24.jpg)
![Rwenzori Mountains](https://exo-terra.com/wp-content/uploads/rwenzori-24.jpg)
In the intricate tapestry of nature, even the most vibrant chameleons effortlessly blend, turning a search into a game of keen observation and patience. Their mastery of camouflage challenges even the most seasoned observer, making every discovery a hard-won triumph
Eureka: The First Encounter
It happens on the second day, just as the morning mist rises, revealing the gold and green tapestry of the forests below. A slight movement on a tree fern catches the eye, a subtle shift in the pattern. And there, beautifully camouflaged against the backdrop, is our first chameleon, the Ruwenzori Three-horned Chameleon or Trioceros johnstoni. The chameleon, with its staggered motion and exquisite color play, showcases nature’s boundless creativity. As the minutes pass, its colors shift—a living mood ring, revealing its emotions and intents.
Using age-old field tactics like meticulous transect walks and spontaneous encounters unveiled several more specimens. With every step, the exact coordinates were carefully logged, mapping these creatures to their sacred niches.
The intricate environment was documented, and behavior patterns were recorded while specialty UV meters gauged the further habitat secrets. At the same time, our arsenal of high-definition macro lenses and 4K video cameras immortalized the sophisticated designs and hues of chameleon anatomy. Every detail, every color shift, every flicker of the eye was captured, laying bare the mesmerizing artistry of evolution.
![Rwenzori Mountains](https://exo-terra.com/wp-content/uploads/rwenzori-2.jpg)
![Rwenzori Mountains](https://exo-terra.com/wp-content/uploads/rwenzori-2.jpg)
Amid the foliage, a burst of brilliant hues betrayed the presence of a Trioceros johnstoni. Its vibrant colors stood in stark contrast to its surroundings, it was the chameleon's deliberate and unhurried movement, a mesmerizing dance of patience and precision, that rendered it nearly invisible to the untrained eye
The Mystery of the Ruwenzoris: Kinyongia xenorhina
In the undulating terrains of the Ruwenzoris, each day unravels another layer of nature’s mysteries. It isn’t just about identifying diverse chameleon species, each possessing unique colors and characteristics, but diving deep into the intricate connections binding the mountains’ vast ecosystem.
However, one twilight brought forth a truly mesmerizing discovery. As the crimson hues of sunset mingled with the soft glow of our campfire, our eyes caught the sight of a resting marvel – the Kinyongia xenorhina. This strange-horned chameleon, living up to its name, boasts a remarkable protrusion jutting from its snout’s pinnacle. Especially pronounced in males, this distinctive feature emerges as two individual plates, stretching outward, only to converge seamlessly at the end. A high, pronounced casque adds to its architectural marvel, adorned with expansive, plate-like scales.
This enigmatic species dons an exquisite palette of olive to brown. Males often flaunt a more pronounced olive tint, while females lean towards a deeper shade of brown. Reaching an impressive length of up to 28 cm (11 inches), they brandish some of the chameleon world’s most formidable “teeth” and elongated claws.
However, these unique beings face challenges. Most find refuge within the protective embrace of the Rwenzori Mountains National Park. Yet, their sanctuary isn’t entirely free from threats. Even within the park’s boundaries, deforestation has encroached upon their habitats. Unsurprisingly, the IUCN lists this species as ‘Near Threatened’, prompting a deeper reflection on our roles in safeguarding nature’s many wonders.
![Rwenzori Mountains](https://exo-terra.com/wp-content/uploads/rwenzori-20.jpg)
![Rwenzori Mountains](https://exo-terra.com/wp-content/uploads/rwenzori-20.jpg)
Amid the textured background of rock and mosses, the elusive Kinyongia xenorhina seamlessly melds, its subtle hues creating a masterful natural camouflage
Reflections and Farewells
Descending from the lofty heights and as the silhouette of the mountains recedes in the distance, there’s a palpable sense of gratitude. For not only have we unveiled some of the secrets of these ancient highlands. The Ruwenzori Mountains, with their rich biodiversity, remind us of the importance of conservation and ecological research.
As the expedition wraps up, data analysis is set to begin, aiming to fill gaps in chameleon taxonomy, ecology, and conservation status. As the team departs, there’s a collective acknowledgment that the Ruwenzori Mountains still hold many unsolved mysteries. It beckons future explorers and researchers to unravel the uncharted terrains of this ancient land.
![Rwenzori Mountains](https://exo-terra.com/wp-content/uploads/rwenzori-25.jpg)
![Rwenzori Mountains](https://exo-terra.com/wp-content/uploads/rwenzori-25.jpg)
Etched in memory, the majestic Rwenzori Mountains and their vast variety of landscapes leave an indelible imprint on the soul
Emmanuel Van Heygen
“To venture into the Ruwenzoris is to embark on an odyssey of self-discovery and wonder. From the moment one sets foot on the damp, moss-covered forest floor, there’s an overwhelming feeling of stepping back in time.”
![Rwenzori Mountains](https://exo-terra.com/wp-content/uploads/rwenzori-10.jpg)
![Rwenzori Mountains](https://exo-terra.com/wp-content/uploads/rwenzori-10.jpg)
From our basecamp, the undulating silhouette of the Rwenzori's lower peaks stretches across the horizon, painting a picture of raw, untouched beauty
![Rwenzori Mountains](https://exo-terra.com/wp-content/uploads/rwenzori-12.jpg)
![Rwenzori Mountains](https://exo-terra.com/wp-content/uploads/rwenzori-12.jpg)
Nestled in a field near Nyakalengija, our basecamp offers a front-row seat to the majestic rise of the Rwenzori Mountains, where earth meets sky in a dramatic embrace
![Rwenzori Mountains](https://exo-terra.com/wp-content/uploads/rwenzori-11.jpg)
![Rwenzori Mountains](https://exo-terra.com/wp-content/uploads/rwenzori-11.jpg)
With the camp firmly established, the gateway to exploration swings open, beckoning us towards the mysteries that lie ahead
![Rwenzori Mountains](https://exo-terra.com/wp-content/uploads/rwenzori-14.jpg)
![Rwenzori Mountains](https://exo-terra.com/wp-content/uploads/rwenzori-14.jpg)
Distinctive red markings encircle the eye of the Trioceros jacksoni, a hallmark trait for individuals from this locale
![Rwenzori Mountains](https://exo-terra.com/wp-content/uploads/rwenzori-16.jpg)
![Rwenzori Mountains](https://exo-terra.com/wp-content/uploads/rwenzori-16.jpg)
While the female Trioceros jacksoni may be subtler in appearance compared to the males, her beauty is undeniable and equally captivating
![Rwenzori Mountains](https://exo-terra.com/wp-content/uploads/rwenzori-17.jpg)
![Rwenzori Mountains](https://exo-terra.com/wp-content/uploads/rwenzori-17.jpg)
The Kinyongia xenorhina, often referred to as the strange horned chameleon, delicately perches on a leaf, showcasing its distinctive horn
![Rwenzori Mountains](https://exo-terra.com/wp-content/uploads/rwenzori-5.jpg)
![Rwenzori Mountains](https://exo-terra.com/wp-content/uploads/rwenzori-5.jpg)
A sub-adult Kinyongia xenorhina displays a distinct color pattern, hinting at the vibrant transitions of its growing phases
![Rwenzori Mountains](https://exo-terra.com/wp-content/uploads/rwenzori-4.jpg)
![Rwenzori Mountains](https://exo-terra.com/wp-content/uploads/rwenzori-4.jpg)
A juvenile Kinyongia xenorhina showcases a distinct color pattern, showcasing the evolving palette it will wear as it matures
![Rwenzori Mountains](https://exo-terra.com/wp-content/uploads/rwenzori-26.jpg)
![Rwenzori Mountains](https://exo-terra.com/wp-content/uploads/rwenzori-26.jpg)
The habitat of Kinyongia xenorhina unfurls as a mosaic of lush vegetation, craggy terrains, and mist-kissed forests
Uganda Journals
Bigodi Swamps
In the heart of Uganda, the Bigodi swamps stand not just as a geographical landmark but as a beacon of life's astounding diversity and tenacity. It is a testament to the delicate balance of ecosystems – a living, breathing ode to the wonders of our natural world.
Bwindi Impenetrable Forest
Deep within the heart of Bwindi's verdant labyrinth, amidst layers of ancient green, the chameleons—nature's unparalleled artisans—paint dynamic portraits of adaptation and intrigue. Trioceros johnstonii, with its colossal horns and intricate color patterns, stands as a testament to nature's boundless creativity.
Journey through Queen Elisabeth NP
Upon entering Queen Elizabeth National Park, the landscape opened up, revealing a panorama that seemed to stretch into eternity.
Kibale Forest
Kibale's Forest ancient trees, elusive chameleons, playful primates, and myriad other life forms, Kibale extends an invitation — not just to explore but to connect, reflect, and be reborn in its embrace.
Maramagambo Forest
A silent guardian of nature's mysteries lies deep within southwestern Uganda: the Maramagambo Forest. As dawn caresses its verdant canopy, the forest awakens in a medley of chirps, croaks, and rustling leaves, telling tales that span eons.
On the border with Congo
With every sunrise, Ishasha unraveled its multifaceted nature. From the commanding lions and the regal elephants to the chameleons' subtle artistry, each tale was a testament to the wilderness's undying spirit.